Pumpkins and pecans proved popular ingredients this year.
For pumpkin, Tom Pantley of Toscanos Café and Wine Bar in Puyallup offered his recipe for a short and sweet seven ingredient spicy pumpkin sauté. Matt Stickle of Tacoma’s Hotel Murano crafted a recipe for apple-pumpkin soup that can simmer on the stovetop while the rest of your meal cooks in the oven. A savory pumpkin bread pudding from Thad Lyman of Gig Harbor’s Brix 25 offers an elegant side dish that plays pretty on the plate. William Mueller of Babblin’ Babs Bistro in Proctor shared his recipes for seared sea scallops with pumpkin broth for an unusual Thanksgiving side dish.
For pecans, Diana Prine from Fife City Bar & Grill took a Southern spin with a recipe for pecan cornbread stuffing. Eric Matthies, of C.I. Shenanigans in Tacoma, crafted a recipe for butter pecan cheesecake that can be made a few days ahead. Pecans also show up on a pear and brie bruschetta from Danielle Kartes of Tacoma’s Minoela.
And those are just a few of the recipes. Turn to pages C4, C5 for new favorites for your Thanksgiving table.
TESTED RECIPES
Spicy Pumpkin Sauté
Preparation time: 30 minutes baking time, plus assembly time. Recipe can be started two days in advance. Serves 4-6.
1 pound piece of pumpkin
2 tablespoon olive oil
1 teaspoon chopped fresh garlic
Salt, pepper and red pepper flakes
1 tablespoon honey
Leaving the skin on, clean the pumpkin of any seeds and connective tissue. Place the pumpkin in a baking pan with a small amount water and bake in a 350 degree oven for about 30 minutes, or until the pumpkin flesh just begins to soften. Completely cool the pumpkin. This can be done a day or more ahead of final preparation, but refrigerate pumpkin until use. Cut the pumpkin away from the outer skin, and cut it into small cubes. Heat the olive oil in a sauté pan. Add the pumpkin and the garlic. On medium high heat, sauté the pumpkin and garlic until they have begun to brown. Deglaze the pan with a small amount of water. Add the salt, pepper and red pepper flakes. Keeping the pan fairly dry, continue to sauté until the pumpkin become golden brown and it is cooked through. This only takes a couple of moments. Add the honey to the hot pan, stir in and remove the sautéed pumpkin to a serving dish.
Source: Tom Pantley, Toscanos Café and Wine Bar, 437 29th St. N.E., Suite A, Puyallup; 253-864-8600; toscanospuyallup.com
Pan-Roasted Brussels Sprouts With Cipollini Onions and Smoked Bacon
Preparation time: 30 minutes preparation time includes blanching and stovetop cooking. Should be made just before eating, may not reheat well. Serves 8-10.
1 pound thick cut smoked bacon, cut crosswise into 1/4 thick strips
3 pounds fresh brussels sprouts, trimmed, blanched and cut in half
11/2 pounds cipollini onions, root cut out, blanched, peeled and cut in half
2 teaspoons chopped garlic
1/4 cup chopped fresh rosemary (no stems)
1/4 cup chopped fresh thyme
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
2 teaspoons aged sherry vinegar
Sea salt, to taste
Coarse ground black pepper
Cook bacon in a large skillet over medium heat until crisp and golden. Using a slotted spoon, transfer bacon to paper towels to drain. Reserve the rendered bacon fat for later use. Using the same skillet, add the olive oil to the pan over medium heat. Next add the brussels sprouts, onions, garlic and herbs. Sauté for 2 minutes. Add the bacon and toss to combine. Deglaze with the sherry vinegar, add the butter, adjust seasonings and serve.
Source: Jeff Bishop, il Trattoria di Merende, 813 Pacific Ave., Tacoma; 253-722-1992; www.merenderestaurant.com
Pumpkin Bread Pudding
Preparation time: 45 minutes baking time, plus assembly. Makes 10 individual bread puddings.
1/2 medium onion, diced 1/4 inch
2 sticks celery, diced 1/4 inch
1/2 tablespoon garlic, chopped
1/4 bunch thyme, picked and chopped
Salt and pepper, to taste
2 ounces unsalted butter
1 cup cream
10 ounces pumpkin puree (see notes below)
1/2 cup egg yolks (4-5 depending on size)
11/2 quarts French bread, toasted and cut into 1-inch cubes
1/2 bunch chives, finely chopped
10 4-ounce foil cupcake liners, sprayed
Over low heat, melt the butter then sauté vegetables, add the thyme and salt. Add the cream and pumpkin purée, bring to a gentle simmer. Slowly temper in the eggs by whisking in a very small amount of the pumpkin cream mixture, being careful to whisk and cool the mixture as to not scramble the eggs. Carefully bring up the temperature of the eggs, then once tempered, add the eggs to the cream-pumpkin mixture and stir. Add to toasted bread cubes and chives.
Pack into sprayed 4 ounce foil cups. Bake in a very shallow warm water bath covered with foil at 375 degrees until cooked, about 45 minutes. Be careful not to allow the water to spill over the edges of the foil cups. Remove the foil from the pan to brown tops lightly.
Remove from oven and cool. If prepping a day ahead of time, place in refrigerator and keep chilled until you are ready to reheat. Reheat by removing puddings 1 hour before service and allow them to come to room temperature, then about 20 minutes before they are needed place a small butter pat on top of each pudding and place in a 250-degree oven until the centers are 160 degrees. Carefully remove from foil cups and enjoy.
Chef’s note: For the pumpkin purée, bake seeded and quartered Cinderella pumpkins at 325 degrees with butter, brown sugar, salt, pepper and maple syrup until soft. Scrape from the skins and blend while still hot. Be very careful the mixture is hot. You may need just a bit of chicken stock to loosen the mixture enough to work in a home blender. This will yield a very smooth purée.
TNT test kitchen note: For a cheater shortcut (because we all need a shortcut sometimes), use canned pumpkin purée. But your Pumpkin Bread Pudding won’t taste as flavorful as making the above purée recipe from scratch.
Source: Thad Lyman, Brix 25 Restaurant, 7707 Pioneer Way, Gig Harbor; 253-858-6626; www.harborbrix.com
Pecan Cornbread Dressing
Preparation time: 30 minutes baking time, plus assembly. Can be prepared two days in advance and reheated before serving. Serves 10.
10 slices day-old bread, cut into 1-inch cubes
4 inch square of corn bread
1/2 onion and 2 stalks of celery, small diced, sauteed until tender and cooled
1 teaspoon rubbed sage
1/2 teaspoon poultry seasoning
1/4 cup chopped pecans
Salt and pepper to taste
11/2 to 2 cups chicken stock to moisten
In a mixing bowl, combine the above ingredients while slightly breaking up the corn bread. Prepare a casserole dish with pan spray and add the mixture. Bake at 350 degrees to an internal temperature of 165 degrees, about 30 minutes. Go online for an accompanying pork loin recipe.
Source: Diana Prine, Fife City Bar & Grill, 3025 Pacific Highway E., Tacoma.; 253-922-9555
Apple Pumpkin Soup
Preparation time: 1 hour simmer time on the stove top, plus 20-30 more minutes for assembly and simmering. Make about 10 servings.
2 quarts vegetable stock
2 cups apple juice
1 medium pumpkin (peeled, seeded, cubed. See notes.)
11/2 cups cream
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 teaspoon nutmeg
2 teaspoons salt
1/2 teaspoon white pepper
2 teaspoons lemon juice
1 stick butter
1 cup apple juice (optional)
2 tablespoons cornstarch (optional)
Bring stock, apple juice, pumpkin to a simmer and cook for 1 hour in a large pot. When you can pierce pumpkin easily with a knife place in a blender and purée until smooth. Strain through a medium strainer while pushing most through with a ladle. Return to pot and bring to a simmer and add cream, spices, salt and pepper and lemon juice.
(Optional: If you want a thicker consistency, mix cornstarch with a cup of apple juice and add to pot.) Bring soup to a boil. Take pot off the heat and whisk in butter. Season with more salt and pepper to your taste.
Optional garnish: Apple chips and/or pumpkin seeds. Slice your favorite apple razor thin and fry in oil until it starts to turn brown and crispy. Place on paper towels to remove excess oil. Toast pumpkin seeds in dry sauté pan till aromatic. To garnish, place soup in warm bowl or carved out small pumpkins and garnish with apple chips and toasted pumpkin seeds.
Note: Per the chef’s instructions, if you can’t find whole pumpkins substitute a large can of pumpkin purée. We did so in the TNT test kitchen and shaved time off the recipe. If preparing the soup this way, add the purée and just enough stock and apple juice to desired consistency and simmer for 10-15 minutes before adding cream, spices, salt, pepper and lemon juice. Then, proceed with the rest of the recipe.
Source: Matt Stickle, Hotel Murano, 1320 Broadway, Tacoma; 253-591-4151; www.hotelmuranotacoma.com
Pear and Cranberry Crisp with Vanilla Pouring Cream
Preparation time: 45 minutes baking time, plus assembly. Can be made in advance and reheated prior to serving. Make cream just before serving. Serves 10-12.
For the fruit layer:
4-6 ripe pears (use any or several kinds), cored and sliced
3/4 cup fresh cranberries
Juice and zest of one lemon
1 cup dark brown sugar
1/4 cup white sugar
1/2 tablespoon cinnamon
1 tablespoon flour
For the topping:
21/2 cups oats (any kind, instant or regular)
2 sticks butter
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup dark brown sugar
1/4 cup white sugar
1 tablespoon flour
1/2 tablespoon cinnamon
For the pouring cream:
2 cups cold heavy whipping cream
1/2 cup brown sugar
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract or one vanilla bean, scraped
For the bottom layer: In a bowl combine the sliced pears (skin on) with the cranberries, juice and zest of the lemon, 1 cup brown sugar, 1/4 cup white sugar, 1 tablespoon flour and 1/2 tablespoon cinnamon. Fold gently to mix completely. Depending on how sweet your fruit is, you may want to check the fruit mixture for sweetness and adjust the sugar accordingly.
For the topping: In another bowl, mix the remaining ingredients for the oat crisp topping. Being sure to melt the butter before mixing with the oats, sugar, cinnamon, flour and salt.
To bake: Place fruit mixture in the bottom of a buttered 9 by 13 glass baking dish. Evenly cover the top of the crisp with the oat mixture. Bake at 350 for about 45 minutes to one hour or until fruit bubbles and oat topping has turned golden brown.
For the cream topping: Stir the cold cream with the vanilla and brown sugar, do not whip.
Serve topped with a generous amount of the icy cold cream.
Source: Chef Danielle Kartes, Minoela, 604 S. Fawcett Ave., Tacoma; 253-503-1460
UNTESTED RECIPES
Pear and Brie Bruschetta with Toasted Sweet Pecans
One baguette, sliced on the bias
One wheel good French double cream Brie
1/2 cup toasted pecans, chopped
2 tablespoons brown sugar
1 tablespoon melted butter
2 ripe pears
Slice baguette on a bias to get slices of bread that are about 3 inches long and about 1-inch thick. Slice brie in about 1/2-inch thick slices Place brie on the sliced baguette and bake at 425 degrees for about 10 minutes until the brie is bubbly and brown on all the edges. While the brie is browning, in a small bowl combine the butter, sugar and chopped pecans. Slice pears into long slices about 1/4-inch thick. Top each bread piece with two slices pear and a spoonful of pecan mixture.
Source: Chef Danielle Kartes, Minoela, 604 S. Fawcett Ave., Tacoma; 253-503-1460
Cranberry, Cointreau and Kumquat Sauce
24 ounces cranberries, fresh or thawed
4 cups kumquats, sliced
3 cups packed light brown sugar
2 whole oranges, juiced plus zest
2/3 cup Cointreau or Grand Marnier
16 whole black peppercorns
12 whole allspice berries
10 whole cloves
2 sticks cinnamon, 2 inch, broken in half
Place the peppercorns, allspice, cloves, and cinnamon in a piece of cheesecloth and tie ends with kitchen twine. Using a zester, make long strokes on the orange and reserve the julienned orange peel. Juice the orange to make about 1/2 cup juice. Add the zest into the reserved juice. Slice the kumquats into quarters. Remove any obvious seeds. Cut each quartered kumquat into halves so that they approximate the size of the cranberries. In a 2-quart saucepan over medium heat, heat the cranberries, sugar, orange juice and zest, Cointreau or Grand Marnier. Add the kumquats, and spice bundle to cranberry mixture. Cook, stirring often, until cranberries soften and mixture thickens, 25-30 minutes. Transfer mixture to a medium bowl and discard spice bundle, extracting as much liquid as possible from the bundle before discarding it. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour to let the flavors meld. Stir sauce before serving.
Source: Gordon Naccarato, Pacific Grill, 1502 Pacific Ave., Tacoma; 253-627-3535 www.pacificgrilltacoma.com.
Cherry Chutney Sauce
2 tablespoons orange zest
2 cups sundried cherries
2 cups red wine
1 small yellow onion, diced
1 small red bell pepper, diced
1/4 cup brown sugar
1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
11/2 teaspoons minced ginger
1/4 teaspoon allspice
1/4 teaspooon red pepper flakes
Salt to taste
2 cups vegetable broth
Unsalted butter
Combine the cherries and red wine and refrigerate overnight. The next day, combine all the other ingredients with the cherries and wine and cook over medium heat for about 30 minutes until the liquid is reduced and thickened. Season to taste with a little salt. In a food processor, puree the sauce lightly to a rough consistency. The sauce can be refrigerated at this stage or kept warm for serving. Before serving reheat and whisk in 2 tablespoons unsalted butter.
Note: You can enjoy this with turkey, but the chef intends this chutney to be served for a Thanksgiving dinner with pork rib chops. Find the recipe for the pork rib chops and roasted root vegetable online at www.thenewstribune.com/thanksgiving.
Source: Charlie McManus, Primo Grill, 601 S. Pine St., Tacoma; 253-383-7000; www.primogrilltacoma.com
Pumpkin Broth and Seared Scallops
2/3 cup butter
1 onion, diced
2 cloves of garlic
2 pounds pumpkin, diced
3 ounces honey
2 cups chicken stock (low or no sodium)
3 tablespoons chardonnay grape seed oil (regular can be substituted)
16 large wild sea scallops
1/2 pound Oregon hazelnuts, toasted, and coarsely chopped
4 ounces hazelnut oil
Chives, chopped for garnish
In a saucepan, melt butter over a mild heat. Add onions, garlic, and pumpkin and sauté until tender. Add honey and cook until caramelizes. Add chicken stock, simmering at least 10 minutes. Purée mixture in a blender in small batches.
In a skillet, heat chardonnay oil over a medium heat. Put in scallops, sear until golden brown on 1 side, flip, and continue cooking until cooked through 135 degrees internal temp. In a bowl, place 4 scallops in each and pour pumpkin broth into each bowl. Sprinkle with chopped hazelnuts, then drizzle hazelnut oil and garnish with a sprinkle of chives.
Source: William Mueller, Babblin’ Babs Bistro, 2724 N. Proctor St., Tacoma; 253-761-9099; babblinbabs.com
Pumpkin Ravioli
20 to 30 wonton skins
1 can pureed pumpkin
2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
2 tablespoon breadcrumbs
4 tablespoons “Mostarda” (recipe follows)
Salt, pepper and sage
For the Mostarda:
3 tablespoons olive oil
Crushed garlic
Red pepper flakes
Salt and pepper, to taste
1/4 cup softened butter
1/2 cup white wine
1 tablespoon mustard powder
1/2 jar marmalade
To make the Mostarda: Heat half of the white wine in a small saucepan. Add the mustard powder and stir until it has dissolved and thickened. Add this along with some red pepper flakes to the marmalade. Season.
In a mixing bowl combine the pumpkin, Parmesan cheese, breadcrumbs, Mostarda, salt, pepper and sage. Lay out half of your wonton skins. Spoon a half of teaspoon of the pumpkin filling onto these skins. Wet the edges of the wonton skins, one at a time. Place another skin on top and seal the edges with your finger. Repeat this until all of the skins are used.
Fill a pot with water and bring to a boil. Carefully place the ravioli into the water. They will take a total of 4-5 minutes to cook. Carefully remove the ravioli and set aside.
Add the remaining olive oil and the garlic to a sauté pan. After the garlic begins to brown, remove from the flame and add the remaining white wine, the salt, pepper, sage and red pepper flakes. Add a small amount of water and return the pan to the heat. The garlic and sage should slightly tint the olive oil. Allow the garlic to cook and the flavors to come together, and then again remove the pan from the heat. Stir in the butter so that it slowly melts and incorporates into the pan mixture. Spoon the sauce over the ravioli.
Source: Tom Pantley, Toscanos Café and Wine Bar, 437 29th St. N.E., Suite A, Puyallup; 253-864-8600; toscanospuyallup.com
Savory Fall Vegetables
3 medium onions, peeled and cut into quarters
3 medium russet potatoes, scrubbed and cut lengthwise into 1/2-inch thick slices
3 medium turnips, peeled and cut into eighths
4 large carrots, peeled and cut into 3-inch lengths
3 large parsnips, peeled and cut into 3-inch lengths
2 medium butternut squashes, peeled, halved, seeded, and cut into 3 by 1 inch pieces
10 to 12 garlic cloves
2 medium sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 3 by 1 inch pieces
3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, approximately
1 tablespoon coarse salt, plus more to taste
1/2 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste
7 sprigs rosemary (3 inch each)
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Put all vegetables, including garlic, except sweet potatoes into a very large bowl, put sweet potatoes in a separate bowl. Drizzle bowls generously with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Toss gently with your hands to coat, then spread mixed vegetables on one large baking sheet, sweet potatoes on another. Break up rosemary springs, and sprinkle over vegetables.
Roast vegetables 15 minutes. Stir gently with a metal spatula if they are sticking. Continue roasting, stirring every 15 minutes if necessary and changing positions of pans to ensure even browning, until vegetables are browned and tender, 40 minutes to 11/4 hours.
Source: Lisa Owen, The Mark Restaurant, 407 Columbia St. S.W., Olympia; 360-754-4414; www.themarkolympia.com
Winter Squash and Potato Soup
1/2 pound medium zucchini, sliced lengthwise
1/2 pound medium yellow squash, sliced lengthwise
1 ounce olive oil
Salt and pepper, to taste
2 medium russet potatoes, peeled and cut in 1/2
1 carrot, peeled and chopped
1 white onions, peeled and chopped
1/2 tablespoon garlic, chopped
1/2 tablespoon tarragon, picked and chopped
1/2 tablespoon oregano, picked and chopped
2 ounces olive oil
1/2 ounce tomato paste
11/2 quarts vegetable stock
1 quart cream
1/2 cup Parmesan cheese, grated
1 ounce champagne vinegar
Salt and pepper, to taste
Season the squash and zucchini with salt and pepper and toss in 1 ounce olive oil. Lightly grill the squash and zucchini, do not burn. In a sauté pan, sweat the potatoes, carrots, garlic and onions in 2 ounces olive oil. Add the squash, zucchini and garlic, sauté.
Add the tomato paste and stock and bring to a simmer for about 1/2 hour. Add the cream and just bring to a high simmer. Blend the soup with an immersion blender, while blending add the Parmesan cheese and vinegar. Adjust seasoning as necessary. Can be held in the refrigerator until needed. Re-heat over a low flame until 160 degrees. Serve hot, garnished with grated Parmesan cheese, crusty croutons and a drizzle of fine olive oil.
Source: Thad Lyman, Brix 25 Restaurant, 7707 Pioneer Way, Gig Harbor; 253-858-6626; www.harborbrix.com
Butter Pecan Cheesecake
For the graham cracker crust:
2 cups finely ground graham crackers
2 ounces granulated sugar
4 ounces melted butter
For the cheesecake:
1 pound softened cream cheese
3/4 cup granulated sugar
3 whole eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla
For the butter pecan topping:
1/2 cup water
11/2 cups granulated sugar
1 cup cream
3 ounces butter
1 teaspoon vanilla
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 cups toasted, chopped pecans
For the crust: Combine all ingredients together with a fork until graham crackers can hold a shape when pressed on. With your oven preheated to 350 degrees, press the graham cracker mixture into a buttered 10 inch spring form pan.
For the cheesecake: Beat all ingredients together until smooth and light. Pour cheesecake mixture into pan and bake in oven for 25-30 minutes or until cheesecake mixture doesn’t jiggle. Let cake cool to room temperature.
For the butter pecan topping: In a medium saucepan, add sugar and water and stir slightly. Place pan on stove and bring the mixture to a boil over medium heat. When the sugar starts to turn amber in color, turn the heat to low and continue to cook until it becomes slightly darker. Take pan off the heat and whisk in the cream. Then add the butter, salt and vanilla. Continue to stir until all the butter is melted. Pour in the pecans and stir well to completely coat. Once the mixture slightly cools, pour onto the cooled cheesecake and let stand in the refrigerator for 1-2 hours or until the mixture becomes firm. Cut into 12 pieces and serve.
Source: Eric Matthies, C.I. Shenanigans, 3017 Ruston Way, Tacoma; 253-752-8811; www.cishenanigans.com
Babs Gone Wild Rice Cakes with Mustard Tarragon Sauce
3 cups filtered water
1 cup wild rice
1/4 cup butter
6 ounces chanterelle, oyster, shiitake mushrooms, brushed cleaned, trimmed and sliced very thin
2 large leeks, white and pale green part only, split, cleaned and thinly sliced
2 tablespoons sage, finely chopped
1/2 teaspoon white pepper (prefer freshly ground)
3/4 cup panko (Japanese bread crumbs)
4 organic eggs, lightly beaten
2 tablespoons Italian flat-leaf parsley, chopped
4 tablespoons roasted garlic chardonnay oil
For the Mustard Tarragon Sauce
1 tablespoons lime riesling oil (or substitute plain)
1/2 cup thinly sliced red onion
1 cup organic whipping cream
2 tablespoons tarragon, finely chopped
1/4 teaspoon pepper
1/4 cup Dijon mustard
In a saucepan combine the rice and water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer, cover, and cook until tender, about an hour.
While rice is cooking start the sauce. Heat oil in a saucepan cooking onions slowly, stirring, until soft and lightly caramelized. Stir in the cream, pepper and increase heat and cook until thickens. Off the heat add Dijon mustard, whisking until completely incorporated.
When rice is finished cooking, drain excess water and place in a large bowl to cool off.
Melt butter in a skillet and cook mushrooms, leeks until tender. Then add sage and pepper cook gently and set aside. Add cooled mushrooms to rice and toss, then add panko, eggs, and parsley stirring to incorporate all ingredients.
Heat the 2 tablespoons oil in a large skillet. Scoop a 1/4 cup of mixture into skillet, a few at a time. Flatten slightly to make even. Cook until golden brown 3-5 minutes per side. Transfer to a baking sheet to keep warm or cool off and re-heat in the oven and can be made the day before.
Reheat sauce and drizzle over cakes.
Source: William Mueller, Babblin’ Babs Bistro, 2724 N. Proctor St., Tacoma; 253-761-9099; babblinbabs.com
Recipes Inside
Tested recipes include Pumpkin Bread Pudding from Thad Lyman of Brix 25, Spicy Pumpkin Sauté from Tom Pantley of Toscanos, Pan-Roasted Brussels Sprouts with cipollini onions and smoked bacon from Jeff Bishop of Merende, Apple Pumpkin Soup from Matt Stickle of Hotel Murano, Pecan Cornbread Stuffing from Diana Prine of Fife City Bar & Grill and Pear and Cranberry Crisp with vanilla pouring crme from Danielle Kartes of Minoela. Also, nine other untested recipes contributed by South Sound chefs.
local ingredients
Where to shop for South Sound-grown ingredients for your Thanksgiving ingredients. The Olympia, Proctor and Key Peninsula farmers markets will be open this weekend, and Terry’s Berries Farm also will sell local products. Page C5
More online
www.theolympian.com/thanksgiving
Reader recipes: You’ll find reader recipes featured in last Wednesday’s food section online.
More chef recipes: You’ll find recipes from South Sound chefs, as well as chef contributed recipes we published in 2008. And Chef Andy Kenser of the Hungry Goose Bistro offers his advice for making the perfect mashed potatoes.
Tips and recipes: You’ll also find tips for smoking, frying and roasting a turkey, and more than 100 Thanksgiving recipes to try.
