Maui can be enjoyed from sky to sea, as well as underground and underwater, and no single article can do more than give a glimpse into the possibilities.
But before you go, commit to reading about Hawaiian history and culture. Attending a luau is another way to learn, but all luaus are not equally created. Some focus on tradition; others focus on entertainment.
Consider the more intimate Feast at Lele or the traditional Old Kahaina Luau, good for families and recommended by experts.
Here are some other tips:
Maui by Sky. It’s expensive but if you have money to spend, taking a helicopter tour is high on our list of defining moments, especially if you can sit in the front.
Blue Hawaiian is highly rated, and we’ll add our thumbs up. Its Eco-Star helicopters own the sky in terms of quiet, two-way communications between pilot and passengers, interior space and larger windows.
Our best visual experience was flying up forested valleys and spotting spectacular waterfalls seen only from the air.
Maui by Car. If you make one road trip, it has to be on the Hana Highway, known around the world for its spectacular sights and about 52 miles of road, 56 one-lane bridges and 617 curves. It is not for those who suffer from car sickness – and you should expect it to take at least two hours in each direction. The road follows the north shore of the island from Kahului through a number of towns, including Hana, to the waterfalls and sacred pools at the eastern end of Haleakala National Park. At a Shell Station at the beginning of the highway you can purchase a CD to listen to along the way to learn a lot about the island.
Maui by Foot. The volcano Haleakala, or House of the Sun, is protected by Haleakala National Park. It has a half-mile-deep crater, is almost 2 miles above sea level and accounts for more than 80 percent of the island.
The winding 37-mile drive to the summit is full of excellent views of the entire island, and near the top it can feel like you’re driving at the top of the world.
Hiking the crater comes with caveats, so call the park concerning the weather (it can be surprisingly cold almost anytime of the year) and for a trail that matches your experience.
The three biggest surprises: the sun transforming the landscape into a palette of browns, grays, reds and rose, not unlike the Grand Canyon; cinder cones rising like sculptures above the arid floor; and the silversword, a striking plant that only grows on lava at high altitudes in the park and can live for decades before blooming.
Maui by water. If you’re lucky enough to be there during the whale migration season, you should make a whale-watching cruise a priority. Unlike whale watching in Washington, you’ll be floating in the tropical Pacific with your shorts on.
Maui Underwater. The 48- passenger Atlantis Submarine out of Lahaina sinks about 100 feet then moves through colorful schools of fish, over a reef and by a sunken wreck. Children love it.
Maui by Snorkel. Colorful fish, coral, sea turtles and other life are best seen by snorkeling. We were more than satisfied with former Kent resident and guide Suzzy Robinson, the enthusiastic owner of Maui Snorkel Tours.
Most guides suggest taking out your contacts; no eye glasses, either. Let the guide know how bad your eyes are because they should have masks that have some correction in them.
Of course, you also can simply purchase your own gear so you can check out the underwater world wherever you go.
Maui by Beach. In east Maui, the striking Honokalani Black Sand Beach is in Wainapanapa State Park. Kaihalulu Beach, also known as Red Sand Beach, is an isolated pocket beach south of Hana Bay that takes a determined walker to navigate the path.
Picking a beach can be a spur of the moment decision on Maui because all along Highway 30, on the west side, are many beach access points that help spread out the beach-going population.
Maui Underground. Ka’eleku Caverns, also known as the Hana Lava Tube, offers a quarter-mile self-guided tour. The lava tube is on the road to Hana, just before you reach Hana town.
A slaughterhouse once used the cavern as a repository for cattle bones.
Eventually 17,000 pounds of bones were removed.
The signage explaining the geology and formations is excellent. Look for the rare lava stalagmite and the gold-like sparkles that are rock-eating bacteria.
One last thought: This is Hawaii’s 50th year of statehood but official activities were intentionally low-key and were part of a commemoration, not a celebration, out of respect for native Hawaiians.
There are still strongly held beliefs about the damage to Hawaiian culture done by Christian missionaries, U.S. military and loss of independence.
So a little cultural knowledge and sensitivity goes a long way in Hawaii.
Maggie Savage and Sharon Wootton are freelance writers and authors of “Off the Beaten Path: Washington.” They live in the San Juan Islands.
Getting There
Hawaiian Air. What’s not to like about a nonstop flight to Maui aboard an airline that is a consistent leader in punctuality and fewest misplaced bags? Plus, the minute you board the plane, you’ll start to feel that Hawaiian hospitality. Web: www.hawaiianair.com.
Staying There
Most of the tourist accommodations are in west Maui, in the village of Lahaina or on the beaches north of it. If you want the convenience of a resort but with a cultural slant, check around. Ka’anapali Beach Resort, for instance, includes a 90-minute cultural tour.
Here are some other places to consider:
Hotel Hana-Maui. A stay here requires a fair amount of elbow room on your credit card, but if you can get past that obstacle, you’ll see why Travel + Leisure, in its 2009 World’s Best Awards, put Hana-Maui in its Top 100 Best in the World – and in the top three in Hawaii. The popular and very roomy Sea Ranch Cottages are spread out with some view of the ocean. A shuttle takes guests to Hamoa Beach, one of author James Michener’s favorites. Information: 866-260-7070; www.hotelhanamaui.com.
Hotel Wailea Maui. We found it high on amenities with a classy entrance and lobby. Our view from 300 feet above sea level was terrific. Its Capische restaurant was rated the top Italian restaurant in Hawaii by the 2009 Zagat Survey. The ambience is less hectic than some beachfront resorts and shopping is in close-by Wailea. Information: 800-800-0720; www.hotelwailea.com.
Aston Ka’anapali Shores. The advantages of staying at this beachfront resort near Lahaina is you’ll get a condominium-style room, blazing sunsets and an oceanfront pool. Activities include tennis courts, complimentary scuba lessons, and Camp Kaanapali for the children. Management has been upgrading its facilities. Like all resorts, understand the fees for various recreational activities and parking before you go. Information: 888-722-6284; www.kaanapali-shores.com.
Grand Wailea Resort Hotel & Spa. The beachfront resort’s $50 million renovation project is complete, so expect 21st century lodgings, amenities and six restaurants. Its spa earned a Top 10 in the World spot with Conde Nast Traveler magazine. Information: 808-891-3383; www.grandwailea.com.
Westin Maui. This four-diamond resort near Lahaina has a spectacular courtyard with waterfalls and flamingos (yes, live ones). See one of the largest flower displays in Hawaii, excellent art (some with a Hawaiian cultural background), and 2,000 palm trees. It also has a terrific spa on site. Information: 808-662-2753; www.westinmaui.com.
If You Go
Official tourism sites: www.gohawaii.com, www.visitmaui.com, 808-244-3530
Atlantis Submarine: 808-667-1790, www.atlantisadventures.com
Haleakala National Park: 808-572-4400, www.nps.gov/hale
Hana Lava Tube: 808-248-7308, www.mauicave.com
Maui Snorkel Tours: 808-268-9840, www.mauisnorkeltours.com
Feast at Lele: 866-244-5353, www.feastatlele.com
Old Lahaina Luau: 800-248-5828, www.oldlahainaluau.com
