Mary Ellen Psaltis

Mary Ellen Psaltis:
Chef's Kitchen Blog

Mary Ellen Psaltis lives locally and eats globally.
You can reach her at TheRecipeWriter@hotmail.com.

Right dishes solve food 'issues'

By Mary Ellen Psaltis, Contributing writer • Published September 08, 2010

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Once upon a time when the clock struck six, mom and dad sat down at the dinner table with their brood of children. It was time for a home-cooked dinner. This was when everyone shared the highlights of their day, solved a few of the world's problems and had an extra minute to savor the hot-out-of-the-oven cookies for dessert.

Then, life changed.

Families began to eat singly using tiny tables placed in front of the TV. Dad waved on his way out to mow the yard and sis waved on her way out to her soccer game. Sometimes, people didn’t even use the table but stood and ate over the sink. The nutrition for our bodies deteriorated as surely as the nutrition for our relationships. Now, life is changing again.

Recognizing the crucial importance of face time, families are rallying around the dinner table once again for meals made at home. We have all heard about the studies that show children who eat dinner at home at least a few times a week with the family do better in school, use fewer drugs and get into less trouble. There are recipes aplenty that promise a nutritious dinner on the table in 30 minutes or less. So what’s the problem?

It seems everyone has a different food “issue.” There is more recognition of food allergies or sensitivities such as gluten intolerance. One person is a vegetarian and another is a vegan. Someone else is watching their fat or carbs. How many different dinners do you need to cook for one family for one night?

It might not be easy, but it is possible to make meals that satisfy a range of requirements and needs within one family without feeling like a short-order cook.

Local and organic produce and meats are more readily available, as usually whole foods are a healthier choice for everyone.

Local resident Brynn Rader’s family includes a husband and two young children. Although she grew up allergy-free, both of her children have had sensitivities with food. Unwilling to forego favorite dishes and good taste, Rader began spending time tweaking her recipes by eliminating the dairy and gluten aspects. She found that cheese or milk from goats did not cause allergic results. Rader also discovered mimic cream which provided the smoothness in recipes calling for cream.

Rader’s hearty Mushroom Lasagna with Ham and Goat Cheese became a winner not just at home but at July’s Pacific Northwest Mushroom Festival in Lacey.

It took top honors in the first Mushroom Recipe Contest. Popular chef Jean-Pierre Simon of the Red Wind Casino prepared all the top recipes during the weekend for festival-goers to vote on their favorite. The huge pans of Rader’s lasagna emptied quickly.

Rader’s recipe uses gluten-free lasagna noodles, mimic cream, goat cheese, mushrooms and ham. Of course, you can make your own alterations to accommodate the nonmeat eaters or whatever other considerations your family may have. Remember that mushrooms can provide the density and texture of meat without the fat or cholesterol.

This recipe will fill a 9-by-13 pan, which means leftovers for another night or someone gets lucky at lunch. My challenge in the past was to reheat leftover lasagna. I found that heating it up on the stove works very well when I put a little spaghetti sauce on the bottom of the pan and then cut and stir in very small squares of the lasagna. It doesn’t look the same, but it heats evenly.

The second-place winner in the recipe contest was an Exquisitely Stacked Mushroom Appetizer created by Simon. Fresh basil, a balsamic reduction and parmesan cheese are a few of its delightful ingredients. Third place went to Maxine Williams for a wonderful mushroom soup, nothing like the stuff that comes out of a can.

Having dinner with your family is a treat. You never know what you might learn about your own family. Our youngest is a senior in high school now, so his dinner days at home a numbered. I want to enjoy every one I can. Bon appetit!

Mary Ellen Psaltis lives locally and eats globally. You can reach her at TheRecipeWriter@hotmail.com.

Max's Marvelous Fresh Chanterelle Soup

Yield: Serves 6-8

1 pound fresh chanterelles, rinsed quickly under cold water and dried well

5 tablespoons butter

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

One-half teaspoon sea salt

One-quarter teaspoon fresh ground pepper

1 clove garlic, minced

2 leeks, washed well (white part finely chopped)

1 1/2 cups potatoes, peeled and diced

6 1/2 cups chicken broth

1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley

1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme

1 cup Greek yogurt or light sour cream

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

Chop mushrooms coarsely reserving two or three well shaped ones. Sauté the chopped mushrooms in a large, heavy skillet with 2 tablespoon of butter. Season with lemon juice, salt & pepper. Cook no more than 3-4 minutes until liquid is released. Do not brown the mushrooms. Remove mushrooms to warm place, reserving the liquid. Heat the remaining butter in a 4 quart soup pot. Add leeks, garlic, potatoes and sauté for 10 minutes over medium heat. Add reserved juices, broth, spices and bring to a boil - reduce heat and simmer for 15-20 minutes until the potatoes are soft. Add mushrooms and simmer very gently for about 30 minutes.

Pour the soup through a sieve into a large bowl; reserve liquid. Let vegetables cool in sieve. Puree in food processor or Foley food mill.

Rinse out the soup pot - pour in reserved liquid. Add vegetable-mushroom puree. Add yogurt or sour cream and vinegar then whisk to mix together. Simmer over very low heat.

Slice remaining chanterelles and add to soup to warm. Taste for seasoning.

Brynn Rader's Mushroom Lasagna with Ham and Goat Cheese

Prep time: 45 minutes; Bake time: 40 min + standing; Yield: 12 servings

1 package gluten-free lasagna noodles

1 pound fresh mushrooms, sliced

2 cups baby portobello mushrooms (crimini), chopped

1 large sweet onion, chopped

3 tablespoons olive oil

One half cup minced fresh parsley or use 1 to 1.5 tablespoons dried parsley

7 - 12 ounces deli ham, chopped

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 1/2 teaspoon Italian seasoning

2/3 cup dry white wine

2 cans (14.5 ounces each) diced tomatoes, drained

2 cups goat cheddar cheese (available at Trader Joe’s) shredded or goat mozzarella (available at Olympia Food Co-op) shredded

3/4 cup mimic cream (available at J-Vee health foods) or goat milk

Cook noodles according to package instructions. In a dutch oven or large pot, cook and stir mushrooms and onion in oil until tender. Add parsley, ham, garlic, and seasoning. Cook 2 minutes longer. Add wine. Cook and stir until liquid is evaporated. Add drained tomatoes and heat through. Spread one cup of this sauce in a greased 13 x 9 baking dish. Layer one-third of the noodles, one and one-third cup sauce, and a scant half cup of shredded cheese. Repeat twice. In a small bowl combine mimic cream (or goat milk) and remaining shredded cheese. Spoon over the top. Cover & bake at 350 degrees for 30 minutes. Uncover and bake for about 10 minutes longer or until cheese is melted. Let stand 10 minutes before cutting.

Exquisite Stacked Appetizer

8 slices of sour dough bread, crusts removed

2 ounces butter

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

1 garlic clove, minced

1/2 small onion, finely chopped

12 ounces assorted mushrooms, sliced

1 tablespoon sherry

1/3 cup sour cream

1 tablespoon all purpose flour

1 tablespoon parsley, finely chopped

1 teaspoon fresh thyme

1 ounce grated Parmesan cheese

1 package fresh basil, julienne

Balsamic vinegar glaze to taste

Preheat oven to 350 degrees, brush both sides of the bread with butter. Cut each slice in half vertically, then each half in either thirds horizontally or in half diagonally. Bake for 5 to 10 minutes or until golden and crisp. Let cool on baking rack.

Heat olive oil in large frying pan, add onions and cook until halfway done, add garlic and cook for approximately 5 minutes or until soft. Add mushrooms and cook until tender. Add sherry, let the alcohol evaporate, add sour cream, salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle flour into the mushrooms and stir in as you add. Bring mixture to a boil, stir until it thickens. Remove from heat and add herbs and stir. Allow to cool.

Arrange toasted bread on tray, top with mushroom mixture, Parmesan cheese, basil and balsamic vinegar glaze.

Note: Bread can be made two days in advance, store in airtight container. Balsamic glaze can be made by reducing balsamic vinegar in half or to desired consistency.

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