Sweet on taste and budget

ROSEMARY PONNEKANTI | STAFF WRITER • Published November 09, 2011

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Ah, pecan pie! Maple syrup, chocolate bourbon sauce, anything with coconut... Thanksgiving tables just beg for rich desserts, but a whole lot of us don’t feel particularly rich in this economy. So bypass the expensive nuts and flavorings, and go for desserts that’ll fill your belly without emptying your wallet. The good news? They’ll delight your taste buds just the same. Here are some tips and recipes from local chefs to help you do budget desserts this Thanksgiving.

PLAN AHEAD

Buy spices in bulk, says Gwen Hayes, owner of Capers catering company in Tacoma’s Proctor district. Buy only as much as you’ll need for the holiday season – even just two spoonfuls – and you won’t be spending your hard-earned cash on little glass jars. Good sources are Metropolitan Market in Tacoma or Bucks 5th Avenue Spices in Olympia. Mexican food sections in stores such as Top Foods also sell cheaper spices. And ask friends if they have herbs such as sage, mint or rosemary in their gardens, rather than buying them.

Watch now for sales. “Stock up on butter when you see a good price,” says Hayes. Or anything else you’ll need, like chocolate chips.

Check the price per pound. Sometimes the smaller box is actually cheaper per pound than the bigger one, Hayes points out.

Shop around. Cash and Carry stores are open to the public, notes Cindy Pantley, baker at Puyallup restaurant Toscano’s, and they sell in larger quantities.

Don’t buy cookbooks. “There are millions of recipes online,” says Hayes.

MAKE IT YOURSELF

Be brave and make your own pie crusts – and everything else. “In general, the less packaged food you use the less expensive it will be,” says Leanne Willard, director of Bayview School of Cooking in Olympia. “Sorry to all those frightened would-be pie makers out there, but it’s going to be much cheaper to make your own pie crust than to buy it ready-made.” This also goes for mixes, says Hayes, which are “a complete waste of money. You have to add eggs, butter and milk – so you’re paying all that for some flour? Baking from scratch is much cheaper.” And tastier, too. Bayview teacher Beth Storey says she can make three crusts for under $1 – plus they can be made one day ahead.

If you’ve grown your own pumpkins, that’s also cheaper than buying canned. Cut them in half, scoop out the seeds, bake them at 350 degrees until soft, then scoop out the pulp. Just don’t use the big jack-o-lanterns, says Hayes; they’re too watery. Small sugar pumpkins taste better.

And whip your own whipped cream. “It’s so much cheaper than buying Koolwhip,” says Storey, “and tastes better.”

CHOOSE SMART INGREDIENTS

Forget the pecans. “Pecans are ridiculously expensive right now,” Hayes says. “Besides, pecan pie is not a northern dessert.” Use local nuts, such as walnuts or hazelnuts, instead and save a lot of money.

Or go for fruit. Avoid the expense of nuts and make pies, crisps or crumbles with local, cheap fruit such as apples. Pumpkin is also inexpensive, or you can try canned fruit rather than expensive imports.

Substitute. Pantley recommends finding recipes that allow cheaper substitutes for butter, such as applesauce, buttermilk or vegetable oil. Hayes suggests subbing cream for heavy whipping cream (unless you need to whip it) or evaporated milk.

Go back to basics. Never underestimate the power of sugar and eggs, reminds Willard. They’re cheap and versatile.

CHOOSE CHEAPER DISHES

Make pies, crumbles or puddings. Asked which is simply the cheapest dessert to make, most chefs agree on fruit pies, crumbles or crisps, and pudding. Pantley serves bread pudding at Toscano’s: “With spices and raisins it’s a very hearty dessert, and you can top it with flavored syrups.” She advises finding cheap day-old bread at supermarkets or outlet stores, and using milk rather than cream. Powell loves crisps and crumbles for budget-friendly desserts to feed crowds, mixing Granny Smith with Honeycrisp apples, or using pears, and baking in 13-by-9-inch pans to serve buffet style.

Think beyond pies for a large crowd, says Willard. Pies, or even cheesecake, can feed up to 12 people with small slices, but if you’ll still need two or three you might want to make something that goes further. Hayes stocks Capers with pumpkin slice bars, which are a delicious and easy way to feed many. Butter or chocolate chip cookies can also be inexpensive, especially if you buy ingredients on sale.

Thanksgiving desserts can be sweet – but having money left in your pocket afterwards can be even sweeter. Luckily, you can have both.

Rosemary Ponnekanti: 253-597-8568

rosemary.ponnekanti@thenewstribune.com

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