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Peruvian potato dish feeds soul, stomach

CREATIVE: Portland restaurant feeds the senses

Mary Ellen Psaltis | • Published October 21, 2009

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Sometimes all the pieces of the puzzle fit together perfectly. My life feels especially on track when a series of seemingly random events lead to an unexpectedly satisfying result. This happy story began at the end of August.

Friends (a family of three) invited my family of three along for a rafting trip on the White Salmon River. We were given the luxury of being absent from all the planning. Our job was to show up and have a good time. They selected a Peruvian restaurant called Andina in Portland for our dinner stop en route to Hood River. That sounded enticing.

In a moment of inspiration, I called the restaurant to see if they would be willing to share a recipe for my column. Yes, they would, indeed, like to share a traditional appetizer called causa. Unfortunately, the owner Doris Rodriguez de Platt was not there on Tuesday evenings, the night we were planning to come.

Shortly before leaving Olympia, our group of six turned into a party of nine with the addition of various adult children. I also learned that Rodriguez was changing her plans so that she would be available the night we would dine at Andina.

Like the warmth of golden sunshine, we were met at the restaurant by Rodriguez herself. It was as if we were a favorite branch of her family coming over for dinner. Grandma was cooking and the anticipation of each dish grew.

We gave free rein to our server who selected dishes across the menu. Plates arrived family style, allowing us to sample the evening’s special seafood paella plus crisp empanadas and lively ceviche made from a recipe that dates back to the 16th century. The feast was kicked off with causa, freshly mashed potatoes infused with lime juice and layered with a seasoned, house-smoked chicken salad.

Causa can be economical and relatively easy to prepare. It can also be embellished by grander chefs with variations in the potatoes, fillings and spices. It’s often layered with fish. Andina makes its own chicken mixture. It also usually uses purple potatoes.

Rodriguez grew up in the Andes of Peru and her husband, John Platt, is from the United States. With help from their sons, they have created a restaurant that infuses the traditions of Peru into delicious dishes. Her culture comes to life in her presence and on her plates. Rodriguez cooks to feed the soul as well as the stomach.

Our party of nine had a rousing time. Meeting Doris Rodriguez de Platt was like finding the pot of gold at the end of a rainbow. And the rest of the rafting trip went by like a dream. Get creative with your potatoes and see what you have been missing. Bon appétit!

Mary Ellen Psaltis lives locally and eats globally. You can reach her at TheRecipeWriter@hotmail.com.

Andina

1314 N.W. Glisan St., Portland

503-228-9535

www.andinarestaurant.com Causa Serves 6