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Texas trip nets summery dinner recipe

Taste of Italy: Mediterranean meal makes good use of olives, capers, herbs

THE OLYMPIAN | • Published June 17, 2009

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“Are you ready for dinner?”

His English was wrapped in a romantic Italian accent and I was momentarily swept away to Italy. I couldn’t help but smile. As he continued, I was charmed by his pleasantries, and because he was wearing a suit even though it was unseasonably hot for early spring in San Antonio, Texas. My husband and I were strolling across the patio of Luciano’s en route to our evening’s activities. The man walked alongside us, extolling the delights that awaited if we allowed him to seat us at a nearby table. The invitation was enticing, but we were otherwise committed.

At the end of the patio I paused for a moment and, because of his friendliness, I went back to talk to the man. His name was maitre d’ Carmelo Vassalli, and I quickly explained about writing a newspaper column in Olympia and that I would love to have one of his restaurant’s Italian recipes. Vassalli nodded his head and smiled. He said he would get his manager. As he walked away, it dawned on me that the man spoke more Italian than English.

Aid came in the form of manager and chef Milan Saltchev. He and his associate Mario Serna were delightfully accommodating and eager to deliver a satisfying recipe for fish. We arranged dinner for the following evening.

In the meantime, I learned more about Luciano’s.

Luciano and Gennaro Centofanti, brothers from Italy, grew up in their mother’s trattoria, learning the business and the artistry of cooking.

They brought their skills to the United States, developing full-service restaurants as well as shopping center and neighborhood locations.

As the brothers write, “We develop innovative concepts where we can provide a specialty menu filled with authentically hand-crafted pizzas, sandwiches, traditional pastas, homemade bread and more savory options with true Italian passion.”

They rely on fresh ingredients and like to cook in their wood-fired ovens.

I was impressed that Saltchev and Serna had worked for the company for 12 and six years, respectively. In a business where people move around frequently, this said a lot about their employers.

From the menu, Saltchev suggested the Flounder Napolitano, a super summer meal highlighted by its ease of preparation and use of fresh cherry tomatoes and basil. The Mediterranean elements are olives and capers.

I don’t usually have capers on my grocery list. They are an item I don’t think about; I am not sure I could even locate them in my favorite food store.

The first time I saw them on my plate at a restaurant, I wasn’t sure if they were for decoration, for seasoning or for eating.

I’ve since learned about their edible nature. Capers are the unripened flower buds of a plant called Capparis spinosa.

Harvested buds are sun dried and then pickled in vinegar, wine or salt, which brings out their tangy lemon flavor.

The evening we returned for dinner we found ourselves quite relaxed as we sipped our wine and dipped our bread.

The water taxis below us on the San Antonio Riverwalk were motoring tourists through the canals.

No, they weren’t the canals of Venice, but we lingered over our meal, appreciating the luxury of eating well-prepared food outside in pleasantly warm air.

The recent tease of summer weather here in the Northwest has motivated many of us to eat outside.

Flounder Napolitano requires no oven to heat up your house. It cooks quickly on top of the stove, so it won’t be long before you are on your deck or at your picnic table.

Remember to pick up a jar of capers; you’ll find numerous uses for them.

Relish your meal. It won’t matter whether you speak Italian – good food is understood in any language.

Bon appetit!

Mary Ellen Psaltis lives locally and eats globally. You can reach her at TheRecipeWriter@hotmail.com.

Luciano on the River

849 E. Commerce, Suite 183, San Antonio, TX 78205;

210-223-0500;

www.lucianorestaurants.com

Luciano’s Flounder Napolitano

1 pound flounder filets or other white fish

1/2 cup green olives, cut in half

1/2 cup Kalamata olives, cut in half

1/2 cup cherry tomatoes, cut in half

1/4 cup capers

1/2 cup basil leaves

1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

Salt and pepper to taste

Place 1/4 cup olive oil in skillet and heat. Salt and pepper filets and sauté.

In a bowl, add olives, tomatoes, capers, basil and remaining olive oil. Mix together and slightly mash tomatoes.

When fish is done, remove from skillet. Pour ingredients on top of filet and serve.

Hint: Luciano’s bread dip was terrific. Premium olive oil was infused with garlic, basil, parmesan cheese and red pepper. Have the balsamic vinegar handy, too.