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Make your own marvelous mirepoix

THE OLYMPIAN | • Published August 12, 2009

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Do you remember the tongue twister, “She sells sea shells down by the sea shore?” Here is a new one: Steven’s sells sensational sautéed seafood salad on spinach in Shelton.

That was my discovery when I met my dear friend at Steven’s Fine Dining in Shelton. She lives on Harstene Island, making Shelton more or less half way from where I live.

If I were of sturdier stock, I might be able to run from my house to the end of Johnson Point Road and swim across to her house. The actual distance would be much shorter, but the trip would be challenging. As it turns out, I drove.

Steven’s Fine Dining is in an old bank building right across the street from the Shelton post office. It’s quietly fancy but totally comfortable, and it was quite delightful for our lunch.

My lunch pleasures were amplified when I visited with executive chef Kern Dolby, whom I first met when he was cooking at the Alderbrook Resort before it was remodeled. Dolby has found success and recognition as a chef and likes being in Mason County.

He treated me to his warm sautéed seafood salad packed with plenty of prawns, shrimp and scallops. Hints of fresh herbs and a touch of bacon pulled it all together.

Dolby’s recipe calls for 2 cups of mirepoix, a basic element of French cooking. It might have been created by the chef of the Duc de Levis-Mirepoix in France in the 18th century.

Although it simply is a combination of onion, carrots and celery, it brings depth and an earthy quality to stocks, soups, stews and sauces. The three ingredients – also called aromatics – can be raw, roasted or sautéed with butter. Other variations of mirepoix can include leeks, parsnips, garlic, tomatoes, shallots, mushrooms, bell peppers or chilies.

I am still savoring my recent memories of France which involve a rarefied dining experience at a bouchon (more on that another time), warm croissants and singing vegetable vendors. I can bring a little of that home by making my own mirepoix, using an equation of 2-1-1 – meaning 2 cups of onions for each cup of carrots and celery.

I have found the carrots at Olympia Farmers Market to have far superior flavor to the packaged ones in the grocery store.

Cut all of the ingredients as small and uniform as possible. It looks nicer and makes for more uniform cooking. Sauté together in a little butter. You will find numerous ways to use your mirepoix in your daily cooking.

If you find yourself at the sea shore this summer, breathe in that amazing air and find some fresh seafood to buy for your own salad. If you are not at the shore, you still can find all of your needed ingredients right in Olympia.

Here is my new tongue twister: Mary Ellen makes marvelous, mouth-watering mirepoix. Bon appetit!

Mary Ellen Psaltis lives locally and eats globally. You can reach her at TheRecipeWriter@hotmail.com.

Steven’s Fine Dining

203 W. Railroad Ave., Shelton

360-426-4407 Sautéed Seafood Salad

Serves 4

1/4 pound prawns, peeled and deveined, raw (preferably)

1/4 pound scallops (bay or sea)

1/4 pound bay shrimp

2 cups mirepoix (julienned celery, onion and carrots)

4 strips bacon, chopped and cooked (optional)

1 tablespoon chopped garlic

1/2 cup Roma tomatoes, chopped

2 tablespoons fresh herbs, chopped (thyme and parsley are good starts)

1/8 cup shredded Asiago or parmesan cheese

1/4 cup white wine

2 tablespoons flour

Salt and pepper to taste

2 tablespoons butter or margarine

2 heads chopped romaine or spinach, cleaned

Sauté mirepoix and garlic until half cooked. Add prawns and scallops until almost cooked. Add flour, butter and white wine and cook until combined and saucy. Finish with tomatoes, bay shrimp, salt and pepper, bacon and fresh herbs. Pour or ladle over fresh cut greens and sprinkle with cheese.

Serve with baked bread or homemade soup.

Chef’s note: A variety of different seafood will work. White wine can be substituted with water or clam juice.