Wine of the week

2005 Smith $25: This stately, complex red wine from this reliable and underrated winery needs a little aeration to open up, but it reveals itself to be every bit as distinguished as many of its more expensive Napa Valley counterparts. It's a well-structured wine that would benefit from 5 to 10 years of aging but also shows well now. It offers ample black-cherry and black-currant fruit, with hints of chocolate and pipe tobacco, and impressive length in the finish.