The Case for Wine
When it is abused, the alcohol in some beverages can cause enormous problems for society, as was evident in the years before the imposition of prohibition in 1920.
During that 13-year dry period, Americans learned some of the drawbacks of prohibition and that led to its repeal in 1933.
After prohibition ended and until the mid-1960s, very little fine wine was produced here. One reason was that wine science was halted at the start of the dry era and it took decades for it to resume.
Wine is a complex discipline that entails farming (botany and plant physiology) and fermentation science (chemistry and microbiology). When Robert Mondavi founded his iconic winery in the Napa Valley in 1966, it marked a resurgence of interest in fine wines. But promoting it was overseen by Congress.
In 1988, Congress heeded the warnings of a new prohibition lobby and imposed warnings label on all alcoholic beverages. In its ruling, Congress also imposed another restriction: No winery could promote wine's health benefits, even if they were proven by scientific studies.
Almost immediately, several physicians — notably heart specialists — spoke out against this ruling. They said that peer-reviewed scientific analysis showed that daily moderate consumption of red wine reduced the risk of heart disease, the No. 1 killer of Americans.
At least two wineries tried to promote these studies in their literature. Both were advised that they could lose their licenses to operate if they continued. Since then, all wineries have been ultra-cautious about their comments regarding moderate wine consumption.
Mondavi himself was subsequently embroiled in this issue because of his "mission" statement regarding wine.
From 1988 to 1991, the Mondavi winery's back label carried this: "Wine has been with us since the beginning of civilization. It is the temperate, civilized, sacred, romantic mealtime beverage recommended in the Bible. Wine has been praised for centuries by statesmen, philosophers, poets and scholars. Wine in moderation is an integral part of our culture, heritage and the gracious way of life."
In November 1990, the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms (ATF), the division of the Treasury Department that then regulated alcoholic beverages, said it had received a complaint about the Mondavi Mission statement from an unnamed source. In 1991, ATF withdrew approval for the statement.
ATF approved a revised version of the Mondavi Mission Statement that now reads: "Wine has been with us since the beginning of civilization. It is a temperate, civilized, romantic mealtime beverage. Wine has been praised for centuries by statesmen, philosophers, poets and scholars. Wine in moderation is an integral part of our family's culture, heritage and the gracious way of life."
The word sacred and the phrase "recommended in the Bible" were excised. The word family's was inserted near the end.
To conclude, I quote from the writings of the late English wine lover and columnist Andre Simon:
"Wine is the best of all beverages ... because it is purer than water, safer than milk, plainer than soft drinks, gentler than spirits, nimbler than beer and ever so much more pleasant to the educated senses of sight, smell and taste than any of the drinkable liquid liquids known to us."
Dan Berger lives in Sonoma County, Calif., where he publishes "Vintage Experiences," a weekly wine newsletter. Write to him at winenut@gmail.com.
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Last Updated: Monday, May 25, 2026 05:34:19 -0700
Copyright 2026 Creators Syndicate
This story was originally published May 26, 2026 at 12:00 AM.