South Sound part of boom in cideries
In one year, Julie Ann Gustanski doubled the number of cideries at the Greater Gig Harbor Foundation’s annual cider event, the only cider gathering of its kind and size in the South Sound region.
This year’s Cider Swig, to be held Saturday in Gig Harbor, will host 23 cider makers serving 80 hard ciders.
Last year, there were just 12.
Gustanski is expecting the 1,400 tickets will sell out.
It’s one more signal that the region’s cideries are in a steady pattern of growth.
From Olympia to Puyallup to Port Townsend, the region’s cider industry has grown to a network of nine craft cideries offering hard ciders ranging from modern takes (think raspberry habanero) to traditional ciders that are the type made in England and France using heirloom varieties of cider apples.
Washington has been long known for its apples. Why are cideries just beginning to see an uptick with craft beverage drinkers? Much of the state’s cider growth has occurred in just the last five years.
“I think it’s a combination of things. People want everything better — from coffee to beer to hamburgers. People are, I think, looking for that small batch, unique taste and flavor, and the fact that cideries are small businesses, family owned, some of these are orchards that have been in families for generations, that is an allure,” said Gustanski, who also was director of last year’s Cider Swig.
Cider, of course, is as old as this country. “It was the most commonly consumed beverage back in the early days of America,” noted Gustanski. But Prohibition put a damper on cideries, as did a fluctuating palate that gravitated to craft beer and wine.
Rich Cockrell, who started his cidery and orchard in Puyallup a year ago, attributes the recent growth of cider to a maturing palate and quest for elevated forms of adult beverages.
“It’s like the craft brewing industry of the ’80s. The first craft brewery around here was Redhook. Nobody was exposed to craft beer before that. We drank pretty awful macro brews and didn’t know any better.
“I think as people’s taste and knowledge in cider grow, they’re learning to appreciate it more. I think you’ll find so many people who develop a taste for it,” Cockrell said. “There are beer drinkers who always want to drink an IPA (India Pale Ale) as their beer of choice. The same thing will happen with ciders, with people wanting a traditional English cider, or a dry cider. And I hope it goes away from the syrupy, sweet ciders, honestly.”
Cockrell is one example of the quick growth of the cideries in the area. About a year ago, he bottled his first batch from apples grown on his 17-acre Puyallup farm. Since then, he’s planted 500 trees, has plans for 500 more this fall, and 750 more after next spring. He’s positioning himself to have a constant supply of cider apples.
SUPPLY AND DEMAND
While the area is enjoying a cidery boom, some cider makers predict a potential for slowdown if the supply problem for good cider apples isn’t resolved.
As more craft cideries open, cider apples will be in as much demand as hops have been to small craft brewers who are seeing larger entities buy up entire hops crops, leaving the small producers scrambling for supplies. While dessert apples are in ample supply across the state, apples grown specifically to make cider are not.
That’s why Cockrell’s plan includes planting all those cider apple trees. Cider makers describe cider apples as more complicated, nuanced and carrying more tannins, an important component in the flavor of traditional ciders. Think of cider apples as completely inedible as a dessert apple, much the way wine grapes are not anything near the sweet, tasty grocery store grapes you’d pack in your child’s lunch.
“The demand for good cider juice will grow. There’s plans for more cideries across the state, and as the growth continues, the small cideries will have a hard time getting the cider juice or apples unless they grow their own apples,” said Cockrell.
Crystie Kisler, who co-owns with husband Keith and business partner Eric Jorgensen one of the region’s older cideries, Finnriver Farm and Cidery in Port Townsend, said she’s been pleasantly surprised to see cideries planning their businesses smartly by planting their own trees. Her cidery is about to move to its second farm, where a new orchard already has been planted.
“The apple market will be interesting in the years ahead. We’re hearing more and more from people with patches of land that they’re going to plant cider apples. There’s going to be a big demand, there might as well be a supply,” Kisler said.
BETTER CIDERS, FASTER
Beyond a need for more and higher quality cider apples, cideries are on the same trajectory as Washington craft beer and wine producers in the pursuit of a more refined product. Expect to see more small batch dry ciders in the coming years and less of the sweet stuff that’s mass produced for grocery store shelves.
Jim Gerlach, who owns Vashon’s Nashi Orchards with wife Cheryl Lubbert, said as he enters his second cider season— their cidery was licensed in 2013 — he’s already looking ahead to how to differentiate his cidery, as are many cider makers across the state.
“We’ll see crossover products. There’s a lot of interest in sour beers, and we’ll see a lot of those flavors and techniques that have a lot of crossover potential come to ciders” he said.
“Barrel fermentation and aging is something we’re seeing. We’re using different yeasts and also borrowing techniques from sake and wine making,” Lubbert added.
One of Gerlach’s ciders is reminiscent of the craft beer and wine industries. He’s aging a cider in barrels from Woodinville Whiskey. Explained Lubbert, “For us, it’s not about flavorings and sugar, it’s about interesting fruit, yeast and techniques.”
The same is true for another Vashon cider producer, Dragon’s Head, which Laura and Wes Cherry founded in 2010. “You’re going to see lots of ciders made with just apples, but you also will see lots of other flavors, with herbs, hops. To a certain extent, we’re approaching cider making like the wine world,” explained Laura Cherry.
Is it the cider makers driving the push for a better product? Or something else at play?
Kisler, of the older Finnriver cidery, sees the region’s cider explosion as an outgrowth of an adventurous Northwest palate.
“What I hope happens is that cider makers keep making what’s most authentic and exciting to them because that’s what people will enjoy the most. I want to continue seeing diversity. The Northwest has accepted and celebrated diversity of style. There are some parts of the world where there is one style of making cider. In pioneering style, in the Pacific Northwest, we ventured into a lot of new styles. It remains to be seen if we’re creating a new tradition or still in an experimental stage, but we’ll continue to see experimenting.”
IF YOU GO
Cider Swig
WHEN: Noon-5 p.m. Sept. 26.
WHERE: Sehmel Homestead Park, 10123 78th Ave NW, Gig Harbor.
WHAT: 23 cider makers, 80 ciders. Purchase tickets and receive a glass, plus five tasting tokens.
CIDERIES: 2 Towns, Alpenfire Cider, Anthem Cider, Cockrell Hard Ciders, Dragon’s Head Cider, d’s Wicked Cider, Eden Ice Cider Co., Finnriver Cidery, Locust Cider, Methow Valley Ciderhouse, Nashi Orchards, Neigel Vintners, Number 6 Cider, One Tree Hard Cider, Rambling Route, Reverend Nat’s Hard Cider, Schilling Cider, Snowdrift Cider Co., Tieton Cider Works, Tilted Tree Hard Cider, Wandering Aengus Ciderworks, Washington Gold Hard Cider, Whitewood Cider Co.
ENTERTAINMENT: Live music throughout the event, including acoustic music from Driving Sideways, Gypsy-groove music from Budapest West, fiddling from Spare Thyme, classic rock from Billy Farmer and Creole/zydeco music from Richard Allen.
CHILDREN: For a small donation, short-term child care provided. Also, a zone featuring a number of activities for kids.
TALKS: Learn about caring for apple trees.
FOOD: Grilled oysters from Taylor’s Shellfish, ribs and pulled pork from Rib Ticklers, Thai cuisine from Spicy Papaya, Caribbean food from Kerry’s Caribbean, sausages and dogs from Hot Diggity Dogs, and sweets from Trop’s Chocolates.
Fundraiser: The event is put on by the Greater Gig Harbor Foundation with the intention of raising money for KGI (Key Peninsula, Gig Harbor Islands) Watershed projects that focus on conservation, restoration and water quality.
TICKETS: $28 advance, $35 at the gate.
INFO: 253-514-6338 or gigharborfoundation.org.
Vashon CiderFest
WHEN: 10 a.m.-7 p.m. Oct. 10.
WHERE: Various locations on Vashon Island.
WHAT: Orchard and cidery tours of Nashi Orchards and Dragon’s Head Cider, plus a cider tasting at Seattle Distilling. A cider press from 10 a.m.-2 p.m. at the farmers market.
INFO: Find a schedule at vashonchamber.com/pages/VashonCiderFest.
CIDER SQUEEZES AND APPLE FESTIVALS
The apple harvest is here, and so are the events that come with it. Check out these three featuring nonalcoholic cider:
Sept. 26-27: 9 a.m.-5 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. Applefest and Pumpkin Patch at Lattin Cider Mill & Farm, 9402 Rich Road SE, Olympia. Free entry, but $5 parking charge. Find all kinds of apple products, including ciders made at the farm. Info: 360-491-7328 or lattinscider.com. Applefest will also take place every weekend in October.
Oct. 4: 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Steilacoom Apple Squeeze in downtown Steilacoom near Lafayette Street. An old-fashioned cider press will juice apples, or you can buy a fresh-squeezed jug to take home. Apple foods will be for sale. Live music and activities. Sponsored by the Steilacoom Historical Museum Association. Free event. Info: 253-584-4133 or steilacoomhistorical.org.
Oct. 10: 10 a.m.-4 p.m., Meeker Mansion Cider Squeeze at Meeker Mansion, 312 Spring St., Puyallup. Fresh cider, pumpkins, apple pie contest, apple food items and live music. Info: 253-848-1770 or meekermansion.org.
SEVEN CIDERY TOURS
Want to enjoy a self-guided cider tour after the Cider Swig? Design your own cidery tasting room tour with this handy guide to South Sound and Peninsula cideries.
PORT TOWNSEND
Finnriver Farm and Cidery
Where: 142 Barn Swallow Road, Chimacum; 360-732-4337 or finnriver.com.
Tasting room: Noon-5 p.m. daily all year. $5 tasting fee.
Ciders: Traditional, seasonal and contemporary ciders in the bottle; and fruit wines and port-style dessert wines.
Background: Crystie and Keith Kisler and business partner Eric Jorgensen started their cidery and farm in 2008, but it wasn’t until 2010 that they bottled the first of their ciders that have become regionally known. The cidery is undergoing a big transition now. Said Crystie Kisler, “It’s kind of an interesting time for us. We’re on a small organic farm, but it turns out that the soil type of this farm wasn’t ideal for the apples, so we leased land at an old dairy farm a couple miles up the road. That property has since become available. We’re working on a plan to purchase and renovate the dairy farm where the trees are already and make that into our tasting room and orchard.” Check the website for details, but the cidery expects to move in May.
Alpenfire Cider
Where: 220 Pocket Lane, Port Townsend; 360-379-8915 or alpenfirecider.com.
Tasting room: Noon-5 p.m. Friday-Sunday. $5 tasting fee.
Ciders: Old and new world ciders, as well as barrel-aged ciders and a full line of cider vinegars.
Background: Consider this the elder of cideries in the Port Townsend area. This cidery from Steve and Nancy Bishop began bottling in 2008 and is the region’s first certified organic cidery. Not only is this a cidery, but it’s also an orchard with an extensive collection of French and English cider apples, as well as heritage and dessert apples.
Eaglemount Wine and Cider
Where: 1893 Jacob Miller Road; 360-732-4084 or eaglemountwineandcider.com.
Tasting room: Noon-5 p.m. Friday-Sunday. $5 tasting fee.
Note: The winery and cidery recently moved its tasting room from the cozy little building at the farm, which is way down a back road, to a new tasting room at a former events center just outside the city limits on Jacob Miller Road.
Ciders: Variety of styles, including quince and ginger ciders, as well as wines and mead.
Background: Jim and Trudy Davis revamped an old homestead with an orchard of old apple trees into a cidery and winery in 2006. Eaglemount produces more cider than wine. It might be best known for its quince-based ciders, which have been getting national recognition.
VASHON ISLAND
Dragon’s Head Cider
Where: 18201 107th Ave. SW, Vashon; 206-724-3723 or dragonsheadcider.com.
Tasting room: Noon-5 p.m. Saturday-Sunday through the winter. $5 tasting fee, which includes a souvenir glass.
Ciders: Old-world ciders and modern takes, plus perry (pear cider).
Background: Wes and Laura Cherry moved to their Vashon farm in 2010 and started cider producing in 2011 on their 30-acre farm planted with 6 acres of trees. They’ve got more than 2,000 French and English cider apple trees, plus pear trees. “We’re purists in that you’ll only find apples in our ciders,” said Laura Cherry. “We like the stories that the apple tells.” She described a tiny tasting room, “We have to take it apart every week because we use it as a production area, too.” If there’s time, they’ll take visitors on a tour of the orchard.
Nashi Orchards
Where: 25407 Wax Orchard Road SW, Vashon; 206-463-0358 or nashiorchards.com.
Tasting room: Noon-5 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. $5 tasting fee.
Ciders: Perry cider (made from pears), as well as hard apple ciders
Background: Cheryl Lubbert and Jim Gerlach are just now in their second cycle of bottling at their Vashon orchard that specializes in Asian pears, but they’ve lived on their farm for 10 years. Think of this cidery as one with a split mission of creating cider from apples and pears. “People love coming to our farm and seeing the pears because most people haven’t seen them outside the grocery store.” Drop-by orchard tours given only if time permits, so call in advance to arrange for a tour.
Irvine’s Vintage Cider (Vashon Winery)
Where: 10317 SW 156th St., Vashon; 206-567-0055 or vashonwinery.com.
Tasting room: 2-5 p.m. Saturday-Sunday through Oct. 1 for wine tasting, but cider available at the winery, too. No tasting fee.
Ciders: Vintage blend cider, but the business is better known for its wines.
Background: Winemaker Ron Irvine, of Vashon Winery, branched out many years ago into small-batch cider and has gained attention for his vintage blend cider.
PUYALLUP
Cockrell Hard Ciders
Where: 6613 114th Ave. Court E., Puyallup; 253-905-5800 or cockrellbrewing.com.
Tasting room: The tasting room is expected to open in late September or early October, with tasting room hours on Saturdays to begin. Check website for more information after opening.
Find it: Until the tasting room opens, find ciders at Tacoma Boys, Harbor Greens in Gig Harbor, Tacoma Food Co-Op, Copper Door, Pint Defiance, Lake Tapps Brewing, Arista Pasta and elsewhere.
Ciders: Traditional to modern.
Background: Rich Cockrell bought the 17-acre fruit farm in the fertile Puyallup valley as a second career (his first was as a chiropractor). His first bottling was in 2014. Since purchasing the farm, he’s planted 1,000 trees and intends to plant 500 or more in the coming seasons. His focus is on growing cider apples, but the farm also has well established raspberries and blackberries, which he uses to flavor some of his ciders.
PRODUCTION ONLY CIDERIES
These cideries are production only, for now, but find their ciders around town.
Whitewood Cider Co.
Contact: 360-705-8202, whitewoodcider.com.
Background: David White founded his production-only cidery in Olympia in 2011. His first release was in 2012. Until this year, he worked a day job, but the cidery is his full-time project now.
Ciders: Craft ciders, with Old Fangled the most popular.
Find ciders at: Three Magnets Brewery, Rhythm and Rye, Old School Pizza, Eastside Club and Northwest Beerwerks.
Tilted Tree Cider
Contact: tiltedtreecider.com.
Background: Jared Fraychineaud went from a part-time brewing gig at Narrows Brewing to a cidery owner last month when he opened his Tacoma cidery this summer. It’s Tacoma’s first in the city. Fraychineaud’s cidery features Washington-sourced apples grown on a Naches farm belonging to the family of his wife, Sara Fraychineaud.
Ciders: He debuted a cherry flavored cider last month and will soon debut one made with habaneros and peaches.
Find ciders at: Pint Defiance, Copper Door, Harbor Breens and on tap at Narrows Brewing.
This story was originally published September 19, 2015 at 4:00 AM with the headline "South Sound part of boom in cideries."