Chicory chef opens new restaurant in downtown Olympia. Here’s what to know

Fried chicken.

It’s what’s for dinner — and lunch — at Gold Standard, the new venture from celebrated Chicory chef Elise Landry. The restaurant opened on April 15 at 302 Capitol Way N. in Olympia.

Of course, there are other items on the menu, which focuses on American classics, but the chicken, available solo, in sandwiches and atop salads, is the main thing.

Vegetarian options include a beet Reuben and, as you might have guessed, fried tofu.

Another key offering is biscuits, a staple at Chicory. The sandwiches are served on them (or on regular or gluten-free buns), and they’re available both individually and by the half-dozen or dozen, with pimento cheese, cane butter or seasonal jam.

“My great-great-grandparents in Vinton, Louisiana, had a restaurant called Landry’s Café, and they were known for their biscuits,” Landry said. “The recipe is not the same as what we’re making at Gold Standard, but I do find it interesting that I’m essentially doing the same thing they did. Clearly, it’s in my blood.”

From those fluffy biscuits to red beans and rice and macaroni and cheese, this is food American style. The vibe leans nostalgic, too, with wall décor including mallard duck figurines, an ad for fresh corn and an equestrian trophy. When the Olympian visited, rock classics were coming through the speakers.

As at Chicory, Landry and husband Adam Wagner are focused on local sourcing (the chicken is from Draper Valley Farms in Mount Vernon) and sustainability. This time, they’re looking for a more sustainable business model, too, with a restaurant that aims to satisfy the appetites and budgets of more of the people more of the time.

It’s a fast-casual restaurant from a couple who won a Snail of Approval for their commitment to slow-food values.

The restaurant, in the Market Flats building on Capitol Way, is a co-venture with building owner Walker John, who has proclaimed himself a silent partner. “It’s good to have the freedom to do what we’re good at,” Wagner said.

The short menu includes a handful of favorites from Chicory, which closed in December.

Among them are the Nashville hot chicken sandwich with pimento cheese, the hushpuppies and the beignets, which will be available whenever the restaurant is open.

“That was one of our biggest requests,” Landry said. “At Chicory, we only had them for brunch.”

Another new staple will be an assortment of all-American baked goods, including cinnamon rolls, banana cream pie and delightfully sweet and salty brown-butter chocolate-chip cookies that just happen to be gluten free.

Though there’s plenty to grab and go, Gold Standard has plenty of seating for those who’d rather dine in. There’s a small selection of beverages, including beer and wines selected by Wagner, known for finding excellent pours at a reasonable price point.

If fried chicken and sandwiches aren’t your jam, worry not: The menu will grow. “Over time, we’ll add some more breakfast-focused stuff and some more dinner-focused stuff,” Wagner said.

Occasional special dinners echoing Chicory’s more adventurous and diverse offerings are on the drawing board, too. “It’s something people came to know us for at Chicory, and I enjoy doing fancier food as well,” Landry said.

Gold Standard

What: Elise Landry’s new fast-casual restaurant is focused on fried chicken, plus sandwiches, salads, sides and baked goodies. Vegetarian and gluten free options (including the fried chicken) are available.

Where: 302 Capitol Way N., Olympia

When: 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Wednesday-Sunday

More information: goldstandardeats.com